Thursday, September 22, 2011

The empire strikes back

That's right.  We have a hartal today (though the BRAC office is open).  My hopes of buying a stove and a mattress are dashed yet again.  Luckily I found a large back of halloween-size chocolate candies in my suitcase (it was meant for others, but they will never know!) that's holding me over during this period of absence of kitchen functionality.  Seriously though, does ANYONE really like three musketeers?

The book is going in chunks to the printer; hopefully the whole thing will be there by Sunday.  In addition to hartals, we have to think about the binding process--if it rains (which is has been), it takes longer for everything to dry and set. Nonetheless, I'm optimistically forging ahead with the publicity campaign; if this can be moved based on sheer will and faith, I will make it happen.  Check out the launch announcement on the BRAC blog!

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Friendship, re-defined

A few months ago I shared a definition of friendship that I'd received from a "friend."  One of the fun things about using "flexi-load" (i.e. pre-paid phone time/SMS in some increments) is that you usually have to provide your number for them to transfer it for you.  If you are a.) female, and/or b.) bideshi (not bangladeshi), often they will also keep the number for themselves, or better yet, sell it to others.  So sometimes I get strange calls at odd hours.

The phone rang the other night around midnight and I answered.  I usually say hello a few times, then say, "Apni ke?" (who is this).  If the person does not answer quickly and hasn't said my name at any point, I assume it's an unknown caller and hang up.  And don't answer when they call back.  Or the second time they call back.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Hang ups

Things I acquired this week for my apartment:
Cutlerly
Pot/pan
Dishrack
Curtains
Bucket and laundry detergent

Things that I've yet to buy (though not to say I haven't tried on a few):
Stove
Fridge
Bed
Bedframe
Dresser/Wardrobe (there are no closets in my flat!)

Friday, September 16, 2011

Notes from the underground

Learning a new language is at once super gratifying and super frustrating.  Sometimes I listen to people around me and I think I catch 80% of the individual words, but I can not make out the meaning at all (I hear; before he ....did...three days...so much...with you...very good....was there....right...right....jackfruit).  The guards at my new place speak only Bangla and seem to believe that I also speak Bangla, so it's good practice when they call up on the phone to tell me something, or corner me in the garage to ask me if I need a housekeeper ("bua").
The two purchased I've made for my house have sort of demonstrated why local knowledge is important (or why quality standards are helpful).  The first thing I bought was a punching bag.  I've decided to turn my three bedroom into a one bedroom, with an office and a gym.  So the punching bag situation in Dhaka is that you buy a hook from the local hardware store, attach it to the fixture that is made for a ceiling fan, and then hang the bag from there.  It requires a little faith in the ceiling integrity of the building, but my landlord didn't seem to have any concerns about it.  The first bag I found was almost USD $300--way more than my budget.  I was bummed until I found another one that was USD $50, but was not yet filled.  So I bought it and they agreed to fill it.  Here's where the local knowledge piece comes in: evidently, typically people would only pay half up front.  The other half you only pay when the work is done, so that it gets done quickly.  Being the trusting American I am, I paid full up front.  So a week later, there is no sign of progress on the bag.  So today, my plan is to go and demand that I have it within a week or I want a refund.  We'll see if that works at all (I am not really sure what the refund policy is). Once i get the refund, I can wait a week, rebuy it, and only pay half up front.  Buyah! (not to be confused with "bua").
Purchase two: water filter.  I bought one of the snazzy ones with multiple kinds of filters (there are lots of science words on the front).  There's also three lights: "safe", "buy", "replace" so that you know when you need to get new filters.  Great, except that I got my all set up and put water in, and no light came on!  So I went back to the store and asked the guys who sold it to me why there wasn't a light on.  The answer I got (this conversation is in Bangla, so there is a chance that I'm miscomprehending, but I don't think that was the case): the only light that turns on in the replace light.  Don't worry about the rest of them.   Hmmmmm.  Convenient how that only gets mentioned once it's purchased and in my house.  And I can live on the wild side, but normally drinking water is not where I like to take chances.  Especially when every other one of these water filters I've seen in operation has the "safe" light on. So I'm going to get a Bangladeshi buddy to call the helpline with me, as my expectations for their English customer service are low.  In the meantime I am trying hard to remember to buy bottled water on my way home.
Speaking of buddies, one of the words I learned this past week was "dost."  It was translated for me as "buddy," but listening to how and when people say it, I am going to say that it's "dude" (I said this to my football friends and they said that I was wrong, but I'll stand by it).  For example, if someone misses a wide open goal, you might say, "Doooooooooooooooooooost!" (see, when I write it like that, it really looks like dude!). Or Dost, give me the panni (water).
One cool thing is learning a word that you hear constantly but never understood; it's really illuminating.  My first lightbulb since coming back was the word "o".  "O" is third person, informal.  I had been talk "she," but evidently that's a step up, either formal or informal.  So when people are talking about me, in front of me, usually they'll refer to me as "o," at least if they feel pretty comfortable with me (I take it as a compliment since often it seems hard to break the barrier of being a foreigner and wanting to be casual).  So now I know that the guys on the soccer field are yelling "Dude" all the freaking time.
I've been trying to think of bilingual puns that take advantage of this new word.  Obviously the first one I thought of would be that Russian philosopher dude, Fyodor Dostoyevsky.  Next on the list was a tie between two: The big lebowski or Casper---both involve a friendly dost.  Dost-in Hoffman would have to get a lead role.  Ashes to ashes, dost to dost.
Yep, the thing about living alone is that the only person there to keep an eye on your sanity is you.  But at least everyone always laughs at your jokes.

Thursday, September 08, 2011

Playing the field

"Spoiler" alert: I did make it to the game.
In previous posts, I alluded to the upcoming Argentina v. Nigeria game and my high hopes for somehow wrangling an opportunity to host the Argentinian players (there can't be that many Spanish speakers here, right?). That failed.  But, my friend Tawsif invited me to come watch the game with him and I jumped at the opportunity.  Having been in Bangladesh for "onek din" (many days), I decided to hold off on oiling my metaphorical mustache until I actually GOT to the game and tasted the jackfruit.  But, when Tawsif picked me up from work and I saw the ticket, I got ahead of myself and sent another friend an sms: SEE THE TICKETS!  I AM GOING TO THE GAME!
Actually, what I saw was the ticket.  Singular.  Tawsif's two tickets from the bank had turned into one.  Not that I had time to ask questions because we were cutting through the cantonment area where bideshis (foreigners) are forbidden and I needed to hide.  We got to a friend's house and picked up another ticket.  In another section, but same general area.  Then Tawsif got a call from someone at BFF (best acronym ever--Bangladesh Football Federation), so we turned around and went back through the cantonment area (I hid again) to the Westin, which is where the Nigerian team was staying.  We get two VVIP tickets (VERY VERY important people we are), which put us right behind the goal.  It might have been a closer view than what I got watching my cousins at Broughton high school, in fact.  Close enough to appreciate how easy these guys make the game look, how hard Messi got fouled a few times, how powerful the shots were.  Just one section over there were over one hundred Nigerian fans, who played music and danced the entire game.  Even during the prayer call, which evidently is a big no-no (It took a long time for anyone to tell them to quiet down, which I found pretty interesting.  Right to bust a move?).  The rhythms and fun kind of made me want to go to Africa (or just the Nigerian fan section!).  During halftime they played Waka waka, Waving Flag, Ricky Martin, all the standard World Cup numbers.  For a cricket crazy country,  Bangladesh can get pretty into soccer--everyone seems to cheer for either Argentina or Brazil (Brazil fans cheered for Nigeria on this day).
Hard to Handel: the Messi, ah.
Sooooooo many cameras........it was a flashy night.
After the game we wanted for what seemed like ages for the teams to come back out and watch them walk out of the stadium.  By the time the Argentinian superstar came by, it was full on a can of sardines (most of whom were seriously in need of some deodorant!).  I was getting crushed and couldn't see, so I did what all the guys were doing and grabbed onto the folks around me with a death grip to keep from falling down the stairs.  Luckily the allure of Messi had them all so distracted that it wasn't until I hopped down that they realized that a white chick had been grabbing their shoulder so forcefully.
We walked around the field afterwards and I was interviewed about the game (from what I've gathered, what they finally aired of my long, eloquent, profound statement was "Messi! Messi! Messi!").  I have suggested that one of the local stations just give me a 10 minute daily segment so that I can update my fans about my latest adventures.  We'll see if I can pull that off.  In the meantime, whenever the guards at BRAC see me, they start laughing and say, "Messi, Messi, Messi!"  At least that's what I hear, maybe they think I look like a slob and are saying "messy, messy, messy."  Who knows.
Needed a break from the papparazzi
After the game, we found Tawsif's brother and their friend and went out for some food.  It was almost 11PM at this point and I was starving!  So hungry I ate a full plate of biryani and then a half plate of kitchuri. Mmmmmm, kitchuri.

Tuesday, September 06, 2011

Getting a move on: first 24 hours


In my first 24 hours in MY OWN APARTMENT* (!!!!!!), I……

Inflated my air mattress and pitched a self standing “bug hut” (narrow tent of mosquito net)—no roaches crawling on my face to welcome me to the place!
Woke up and did a little yoga in my bedroom.
Yes, Ruthie, then I showered.  As if there was doubt.  I only threaten not to when I get to sit next to you for a long period of time in a contained space :) 
Felt very bobo/expat when I spread my fabric from South Africa on my balcony to eat my breakfast of crackers and pb.  Had every intention of reading on my kindle but it was not exactly a leisurely kind of breakfast.
Exposed myself!  By that I mean donned a tank top and shorts.  The benefits of hanging my salwar kameez on the window grates are that I manage to have non-wrinkled clothes for work AND privacy.  Amazing!
Danced around singing Taylor and Beyonce.  I think some people thought I was joking when I said that the main reason I wanted my own place was so that I could jam with my girls and shed the shawl.  Does it make me shallow if it’s really that simple?  I wrinkle my face up condescendingly when I say it so it sounds like it's code for some much deeper need for privacy.
Went to look at punching bags.  How much do you think a fixture meant for a fan can hold here in Dhaka anyway? A.) 30 kg, B.) 50 kg, C.) Maria, you are an idiot to even be considering this!
Killed like 20 cockroaches …..but none on the bed.  It's kind of fun to beat the mess out of them with a flipflop yelling, "Die you *$&*%#&*#!"  And decent exercise if you have bad aim.
Just spotted a lizard (they are good guys because they eat mosquitos).  Stephen, you want to come visit yet?

I had a BRAC vehicle today to go downtown and the driver asked me if he could turn on the music.  I said sure, whatever he was in the mood for.  That turned out to be Michael Jackson.  After giggling thorugh Billy Jean and Thriller, on the way back, I asked if he had any other cds.  “Old love songs,” he offered.  Why not?  “Uptown girl” was first, and I was bopping along singing in the backseat, but caught by surprise when during Selena’s “Dreaming of you,” he started singing too!  Maybe I didn’t need my own place after all, I just need to change my standards of what to do in public!!

Sorry guys, “Our song” just came up on the play list.  Back to the spastic barefoot dancing on my super-clean tile floor (occasional power outage and bug sightings aren’t helping my sense of rhythm).  You tell ‘em, Taylor. 

* Due to certain circumstances beyond the writer's control and ability to fully capture at this moment, she is only occupying the master bedroom of her apartment at this moment.  It is still larger than her previous apartment in NYC and involves a balcony, so makes the promise of more space seem rather ridiculous (use of the kitchen will be appreciated though).  More details may be provided at a later date.